Hymettus
Up there in Hymettus
"Up there in Hymettus
there's a secret
", a song by Manos Hadjidakis used to say. And it is
true! There is a secret, impenetrable, yet mysteriously enchanting, a
secret of centuries that fills man with awe, as on this mountain the
footprints of man can be seen, from his first appearance up to our
days
Hymettus is an important component of Attica's greenfield, along
with the other mountains that together form the circular plain. It
takes up an area of 81.230 acres, of the whole 436.500 acres of the
basin's greenfield. It begins from the point "Stavros" (N) and reaches
up to cape "Poundes", in Vouliagmeni (S). Hymettus is particularly
elongated (22 to 24 km.). The valley of Prinaris splits it into: the
Great Hymettus of the Ancient, at the height of 1026 meters, and the
second, Anidros (water-barren) Hymettus or Elaton, reaching 774 meters
on its highest peak. It is also known for its caves and precipipices.
The most common caves are "tou Liontariou" (Lion's Cave), the cave of
Peania, of Archedimos, of Korakovouni, the great precipice of Asterio
etc. 601 plant species have been found on Hymettus, among which are
some rare ones, while more than 100 bird and animal species (amongst
them foxes and rabbits) have been noted down. The mountain nowadays, is
one of the few biotopes and places of natural amusement still left in
Athens. At the same time, the existence of important archaeological
sites makes the mountain an irreplaceable part of our natural and
cultural heritance.
Prehistoric times
The history of the
area of Kessariani is thus connected to the history of Hymettus. The
magnificent western slope of Hymettus created propitious circumstances
for the primitive man to settle. The archaeological excavations
confirmed this, bringing to light blades and obsidian pieces, proper to
the Neolithic age. The mountain's name looks to its long history.
Probably comes from a series of words preserved in the greek vocabulary
by the neolithic habitants of the hellenic ground. These habitants,
"Kares", "Leleges", "Lykeoi", "Minnes", were named altogether
Pre-Greeks or according to the Greek traditions, "Pelasgi". According
to more recent research, these pre-hellenic races were not "Pelasgi",
but "Kares" and "Leleges", coming from the area of Minor Asia.
Reasonably enough, the place names coincide with similar from Minor
Asia, pointing out a close relation of the first habitants in Greece to
those in Minor Asia. According to the version reported by N. Nezis, the
word Hymettus comes from the Pre-Hellenic "Umait" or "Hemyt", which
meant hard, coarse, rocky place. Others derive its name from the
alteration of the word "Thymet" (thymos/anger - thymari/thyme)
Hymet-Hymettus.
HISTORIC TIMES
Ancient World
During
the historic times, while Athens is economically and culturally
growing, the large area of Hymettus appears to be a place of worship
for the ancient gods, as well as healing place, due to the therapeutic
properties of Hymettus' springs. Pausanias, the traveller, reports
there was a statue of the "Hymettuous Zeus' " in Hymettus, as well as
altars for "Omvrios" (pluvial) Zeus and "Proopsios" (end planned)
Apollo. Finally, the altar of "Omvrios" Zeus, was used to propitiate
the god to offer rainfalls, necessary for the agriculture. Hymettus had
also been a religious centre for the gathering of the ancient demos
(people/citizens). Venus' sanctum lied, according to information, at
the area called "Kalopoula" nowadays. This sanctum is associated with
the spring "Kilou Pira", which, according to tradition, facilitated
pregnant women and caused progeniture to the barren. There are various
aspects concerning its name, "Kalopoula", "Kalia", "Kilia", "Kilou
Pira". Pausanias, the traveller certifies that the vegetation in
Hymettus was appropriate for bees. Agriculture and stock raising were
the alternative activities that took place. It should be noted that,
the object of great exploitation, those years, was Hymettus' perse
marble. In the 4th century B.C., the quarries of Hymettus were still
active, while at the Roman times, a great demand had led to a great
intensification of the marble production.
In the 8th century
B.C., significant lands at the foot of Hymettus are being granted, and
thereafter tithed (that is taxed for one tenth) over the fruit of the
earth, by the state. On the 6th century, Pissistratos, the tyrant of
Athens, exonerates the colonists of Hymettus from tithe, particularly
stock breeders, farmers and others who used the area. In the Roman
times Hymettus kept its radiance, up to a point, as a spiritual,
philosophical and religious centre.
Byzantine world
After
the appearance and consolidation of Christianity the city of Athens was
associated with idolatry. This, of course, diminished all intellectual
and spiritual activities in the city. The area of Kessariani, thus,
went through a period of stagnation and, thereafter, a period of
changes. This long transitional stage in the history of Kessariani
meant the end of the ancient world. At this point, the remarkable
monastic societies were formed, on the foundations of the ruined
idolatrous temples.
Byzantine monuments of Kessariani
The Monastery of Kessariani
The
Monastery of Kessariani, as well as most of the monasteries, is
situated in an idyllic environment. The monastery, dedicated to the
Presentation of Virgin Mary, is built in the forest, at an altitude of
350m.Distinctive places in the monastery are the fount of the Ram (tou
Kriou) and at its entrance the holy water, the Ascension. There are
different versions, about the origin of the monastery's name. The main
temple must have been built - on the foundations of a palaeo-Christian
temple of the 5th - 6th century A.D. - either in the 11th century A.D.
or in the early 12th, and it is of escribed cruciform style. The
temple's vestibule was added obviously, approximately at the period of
the Turkish rule, as well as the chapel of St. Antonios, south of the
temple. The wall-paintings inside the temple, estimated to be of the
16th century A.D., retain the conventions of the Cretan painting and
the paintings of Ayio Oros. The monastery of Kessariani had a rich
library and became a great philosophical centre, where great
philosophers and literary men of that time had been tutoring (Georgios
Plithon Gemistos et al.). The Monastery ceased to function (as well as
almost every other monastery on Hymettus) in 1832, under the command of
the regency of Otto.
The Monastery of Michaelmas (Taxiarchon) - Asteriou
Ascending
to the top of Hymettus, passing at first, by the monastery of
Kessariani and then by Kalopoula, we reach the Monastery of Michaelmas,
widely known as Moni Asteriou, at an altitude of 545 m. The monastery
of Michaelmas is said to be named "Asteriou" after St. Lucas
"Stiriotis", founder of the homonym monastery in Viotia who came in
Athens as a teenager in 920 A.D. The monastery of Michaelmas dates
approximately to the 11th century A.D., and according to sources it was
a glebe of the monastery of Kessariani. The old monastery is preserved
to this day intact, including a fort-like parvis, 2 buildings' wings
and the catholic. The internal surface of the temple bears
wall-paintings of the 16th century.
The monastery of St. Georgios (Koutalea or Koutala)
The
monastery of St. Georgios (near the municipal cemetery of Vironas) is
said to be a glebe of the monastery of Kessariani and was obviously
founded later than that. According to mythology, its name derives from
Hercules' deeds. In particular, one of the deeds was also the killing
of the lion that lived on the peaks of mount Kitheronas. According to
the myth, Hercules killed the lion with a huge club made of strong
wood, called "koutali", which he brought to the area that was named
Koutala. The historian K. Orlandos notes that the original name is
Koutalas and derives from the famous family of the Koutalas'. Despite
the fact that information on this monastery is very little, it seems
though, it was a sacred place of worship from ancient times.
The monastery of Ayios Ioannis Prodromos
The
monastery of Ayios Ioannis Prodromos is situated on a marvellous site,
just outside the populated area of Kessariani, at an altitude of almost
300 meters. The monastery is dedicated to the ablation of the caput of
Ayios Ioannis Prodromos. According to very few records, the monastery
must have been founded in the 11th century or later, as well as the
rest of the monasteries in Hymettus. Its architectural style is similar
to the others'. The monastery of Ayios Ioannis Prodromos still
functions as a monastic community. The alterations made to the
monastery from the 1950s onwards, have certainly brought the monastery
to a better shape, but made its history indistinguishable.
Frank - Turkish rule
The
conquest of the Hellenic ground by the Franks and the Venetians,
followed by the Ottomans defined a series of changes, delays and
expulsions on the Hellenic ground. During this period naturally, the
functions and the activities of Kessariani were diminished too.
Hymettus' name, during the Turkish rule was different for every
nationality. The Greeks named the mountain "Trelos" (crazy), the
Turkish "Delly Dayh", that meant Crazy-mountain, and the Franks "Monte
Matto" (Crazy-mountain), which was obviously an alteration of the
original (Monte Ymeto). These three terms reveal the instability of the
clouds at the top of the mountain. But according to another version its
name derives from the alteration of the French phrase "tres long"
(elongate).
Modern times
Nowadays Hymettus regardless of
the encroachments made from time to time, regardless of the growth of
the residential district, despite the occasional fires that burned it,
despite the property disputes, and despite the unreasonable
appropriations of significant grounds made by private individuals,
especially by the Philo-forestal Union of Athens (F.E.A.), still
remains a living ecosystem.
